"Glah-see-ehs"

Next destination on our free-wheeling travelventure? Glaciers, or "glah-see-ehs," as the Kiwi might say. We headed to Franz Josef and Fox, the fastest moving, largest glaciers in New Zealand.

Here we are in front of Franz Josef!



And again, a bit closer...

We awoke on the morning of our scheduled Fox Glacier walk to pouring rain. Unfortunately, that meant our plans were canceled.

But that didn't stop us from learning a cool story about how the glaciers were formed, according to Maori legend.

Tuawe, a Maori, went searching for a wife. He found a woman, Hine Hukatere. They were forbidden to be together because they were of different classes. They would meet in secret. One day, Tuawe was following Hine on the mountain paths. Poor Tuawe fell off the mountains (his lady was more adept than he) to his demise.

Fox Glacier - in Maori, Te Moeka o Tuawe - is where Tuawe died. Moeka means "resting place."

Devastated by the loss of her lover, Hine cried a flood of tears. They remain today: Franz Josef Glacier, or Kā Roimata o Hine Hukatere.

Ladies of the World

Since our last post, a bit has happened. The Kirsch and Hintermann families dropped by New Zealand for a holiday visit. Zoë previewed Christchurch and Wanaka in the South Island (though obviously not overly enjoying it because she was saving her enthusiasm for when she traveled there with Alice), while Alice traveled the North Island. Seeing family was cozy – being a kid had never been so much fun – and surreal – Nick, Zoë's brother, had grown 20,000 feet taller. It’s pretty weird to see people from back home here.

It was also pretty weird for Zoë and Alice not to see each other for ten whole days. By the middle of December, we had reached that uncomfortable stage where we could complete each other’s sentences, and we think that might have made people we met nervous. However, after our hiatus apart, we each had new stories, vocabulary words, and most important, jokes, to bring to the table.

Post-family visits, we met up in Auckland at our home-away-from-home, Borders Beyond, on December 31st. We had not only new thoughts, but also literal tons of freebies, namely teas and chocolates, items we wouldn’t normally purchase due to tight budgets. Giddy with excitement because this was the official start of our New Zealand Half Deux, we spent New Year’s Eve eating a Cooking-Beyond-Borders barbeque (crunchy salad, juicy meat, and smoky vege) and watching Sky Tower fireworks down by the wharf with new German and Swiss friends.

Soon after that evening, we bade Ernest and Mahes, the lovely owners of Borders Beyond, a teary farewell and embarked on three weeks of no-strings-attached travel. First, we made a beeline for Wellington. We’d recommend the Te Papa Museum (http://www.tepapa.govt.nz/pages/default.aspx); it’s got free admission and dynamic exhibits on New Zealand’s cultural and natural history.

Perhaps even more riveting (for Gandalf admirers like ourselves) was the Weta Workshop, what appeared to be a few industrial-looking buildings sitting nonchalantly in the middle of a Wellington neighborhood. They’re where movie magic happens: conceptual design, weapons, armor & chainmaille, specialist props, vehicles, specialty costumes, models & miniatures, special makeup & prosthetics, public art & displays for movies like Lord of the Rings, King Kong, the Chronicles of Narnia, and Avatar (Don't miss this movie! Blue cat-people have never been so cool-looking.)

What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop, so to speak, but visitors can tour the Weta Cave, a mini-museum that displays tasty items like…see for yourself...



For more on the WETA workshop, check out http://www.wetanz.com/about-us/

Sure, we're weedy...

Queenie, the Smart Organics Puppy

Smart Organics Shop in Taranaki
November 30 – December 9, 2009

Our week at Barbara and Bruce McPhillips’ home was colorful. For work, we weeded Barbara’s garden and did some product packaging in her organics shop. For fun, we got sun, got creative, and got indispensable advice. We think this experience is best summed up in the letter we wrote to Barbara and Bruce when we said goodbye: “a little poem to explain why we love Smart Organics.”



Soaking up the sun in your lovely garden
Merry-making amongst the weeds
Always smiles on your faces
Renting movies for cozy, rainy nights
Taranaki (Mt.), an epic journey.

Our beloved caravan
Rambunctious Queenie the St. Bernard puppy
Great meals every evening
A wise expression: “Bitter or better”
New and exciting ways to eat organic
Insightful conversations
Culinary creativity abounding
Smart Organics shop…pure genius!

If you want to learn more about Barbara's business, check out http://www.smartorganics.co.nz/.

An Epic Drama on the farm: November 10-November 26, 2009

Setting: Havelock North. Tauroa Trust Farm (http://tauroatrust.com), near Hastings

Sometimes on the farm, we would: Feijoa mulch, Thistle Grub, Move Cows, Garden, Move Hay Bales, Clean

Alternate settings: Ocean Beach, Te Mata Peak, Farmer’s Market, Havelock North, Hastings, Napier, Craggy Range Winery, Te Mata Cheese Factory, Chocolate Factory

Favorite Tauroa moments:

Beltaine Festival: Beltaine festivities meant the ladies made garlands, and the misters made a stag out of wood. Togas were donned, and generally all were beautified. We held a circle ceremony and ritualistically leapt over a fire. Cows and sheep were blessed, and then we ran around a maypole. Togas were trampled in the mayhem that ensued, and jokes were told and not laughed at. The almighty King and Queen were chosen amidst music making. A lamb was roasted and subsequently devoured, along with German potato cakes. We sang and ate and sang some more, late into the night, when we burned our garlands in a bonfire.

Watching NZ vs. Bahrain soccer game

Havelock North’s Farmer’s Market

Cast:

Heather: Free-spirited, farmer from Vermont.
Nick: Farm caretaker.
Toby: Wwoofer, and the King of Beltaine (German). Patronus: Dog.
Peter: Vivacious German Wwoofer. Patronus: Sid from Ice Age.
Emily: Twenty-four-year-old friend of Heather’s, from Austin, Texas.
Benny and Maria: A Wwoofing couple from Germany.
Jordan: Sensitive guitar cook Wwoofer from Oregon.
Steffi (Shteffi): Forthright Southern German Wwoofer. Patronus: Lion.

And Creatures:

Clark: Fast, ripped, magnificence.
Shakey Soxy: Sadly shaky.
Emma: Bigger, not shaky version of Soxy.
Puppies: precious x 1000000 and teensy.
Lamby the Sheep: Presumably, was once adorable. However, is now Darth Vader-like and morbidly obese. Lamby breathes heavily, has a stinky odor, and likes to eat bottle caps (or anything else likely to kill him.)